The main difference between piggyback and remote reservoirs on adventure motors is their placement. Piggyback reservoirs attach directly to the shock body, creating a compact unit. Remote reservoirs connect to the shock via a hose, allowing the reservoir to be mounted separately. This placement affects heat management, installation requirements, and performance characteristics. Both systems hold pressurized nitrogen gas and oil to improve damping performance over standard shocks.
What exactly are piggyback and remote reservoirs?
Both piggyback and remote reservoirs are external chambers that hold additional shock oil and pressurized nitrogen gas. They work by separating the gas from the oil using a floating piston, which prevents the two from mixing during compression and rebound cycles. This separation keeps your damping consistent and prevents the oil from getting aerated, which would make your suspension feel unpredictable.
The fundamental difference is how they attach to your shock body. A piggyback reservoir bolts directly onto the side of the main shock cylinder, creating one integrated unit. You’ll see it as a cylindrical chamber sitting parallel to the shock body. A remote reservoir connects to the shock through a flexible braided hose, allowing you to mount the reservoir somewhere else on your adventure motor entirely.
Both designs do the same job of increasing oil volume and gas capacity compared to standard shocks. More oil means better heat management during long descents or rough terrain. The pressurized gas helps maintain consistent damping force throughout the shock’s travel, giving you more control when you’re riding loaded or hitting repeated bumps at speed.
How does the placement of the reservoir affect heat management?
Heat is one of the biggest enemies of suspension performance, and reservoir placement directly impacts how well your shock manages temperature. When you’re riding hard offroad sections or tackling technical terrain for extended periods, your shock oil heats up from constant compression and rebound cycles. Hot oil becomes thinner, which changes how your suspension behaves and reduces damping performance when you need it most.
Piggyback reservoirs sit right next to the shock body, which means they’re exposed to whatever heat sources are nearby. On many adventure motors, that includes exhaust pipes, engine heat, and radiant warmth from other components. The reservoir can’t escape this environment, so the oil temperature tends to climb during demanding riding. This isn’t necessarily a problem for moderate use, but it becomes relevant when you’re pushing hard for long stretches.
Remote reservoirs give you flexibility in positioning. You can mount the reservoir away from heat sources, often up near the frame or subframe where airflow is better and ambient temperatures are lower. This placement helps keep oil temperatures more stable during extended offroad riding. The difference becomes noticeable when you’re doing long technical sections where your suspension is working constantly.
The practical impact shows up in how your suspension feels after an hour of rough riding. Cooler oil maintains its viscosity better, which means your damping stays more consistent. Your adventure motor handles predictably whether you’re on the first kilometre or the fiftieth of a challenging trail.
What’s the difference in installation and maintenance between the two?
Installing a piggyback shock is straightforward because everything comes as one unit. You mount it just like a standard shock, bolting it between the swingarm and frame or subframe. The only consideration is making sure the piggyback body has clearance and isn’t going to contact your exhaust, frame, or luggage. Most adventure motors have enough space, but it’s worth checking before you order.
Remote reservoir setups require more planning. You need to route the hose from the shock to wherever you’re mounting the reservoir, then secure the reservoir body properly. This means finding a suitable mounting location that keeps the reservoir protected from rocks and debris whilst maintaining good hose routing without sharp bends. You’ll also need to protect the hose itself, as it’s vulnerable to abrasion and impact damage on trails.
For maintenance, piggyback shocks are simpler to service. The reservoir is right there with the shock, so accessing it for pressure checks or servicing is straightforward. You can often check nitrogen pressure without removing the shock from the bike. Remote setups require a bit more care because you need to access both the shock body and the remote reservoir, which might be tucked up under bodywork or behind panels.
The hose on remote reservoirs needs periodic inspection for wear, abrasion, or damage. Check the fittings at both ends for any signs of leaking oil. If you’re riding in rocky terrain regularly, consider adding hose protection or routing it where it’s less exposed. Most quality remote reservoir systems are quite durable, but the hose remains the component that needs the most attention during routine checks.
Which reservoir type works better for your riding style?
Your riding style and typical conditions matter more than any absolute superiority of one design over the other. If you’re primarily touring on tarmac with occasional gravel roads and light trails, a piggyback reservoir handles those demands well. The compact design keeps everything tidy, and heat buildup isn’t significant enough to affect performance during moderate riding.
Hardcore offroad riders who spend hours in technical terrain often prefer remote reservoirs. The improved heat management makes a noticeable difference when you’re constantly working the suspension through rocks, ruts, and rough trails. Single-track riding with lots of obstacles benefits from the consistent damping that cooler oil provides. Fast desert riding with big hits and long travel also puts enough heat into the system that remote mounting helps.
Consider your typical load as well. If you’re regularly riding two-up with full luggage for extended adventure tours, your suspension works harder and generates more heat. A remote reservoir’s better heat dissipation becomes more valuable. For lighter, solo riding or shorter trips, the difference is less pronounced.
Ground clearance and bike packaging matter too. Some adventure motors have limited space around the shock, making piggyback mounting difficult or putting the reservoir at risk of impact damage. Others have frame designs that make finding a good remote reservoir mounting location challenging. Look at your specific bike and how it’s set up. Check where luggage sits, where the exhaust routes, and what protection you can realistically add.
Think about your maintenance preferences as well. If you like keeping things simple and accessible, piggyback designs suit that approach. If you don’t mind a bit more complexity for performance benefits during demanding riding, remote setups make sense.
How can we help you choose the right suspension setup?
We look at your complete riding picture when recommending suspension solutions. That means understanding your adventure motor, how you’ve set it up, where you ride, and what you’re trying to achieve. Some riders need maximum performance for challenging terrain, whilst others want reliable improvement over stock suspension without added complexity.
Our approach starts with your specific needs rather than pushing a particular product. We’ll ask about your typical riding conditions, whether you ride solo or with a passenger, how much gear you carry, and what aspects of your current suspension aren’t working for you. This information helps us recommend whether a piggyback or remote reservoir design suits your situation better.
We also consider your bike’s characteristics and any modifications you’ve made. Exhaust routing, luggage systems, and frame geometry all influence which suspension setup works best. Sometimes a piggyback design is perfect, other times a remote reservoir makes more sense. We’ll explain the reasoning behind our recommendation so you understand the trade-offs.
Custom tuning is where we really make a difference. Both piggyback and remote reservoir shocks can be tuned specifically for your weight, riding style, and preferences. We set up the damping characteristics to match how you actually use your adventure motor, not generic settings that compromise for everyone. You can explore our suspension products to see the range of options we offer.
If you’re not sure which direction to go or want to discuss your specific situation, get in touch with us. We’re happy to talk through your needs and help you make an informed decision about suspension that genuinely improves your riding experience.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I convert a piggyback shock to a remote reservoir setup later, or vice versa?
No, you cannot convert between the two systems. Piggyback and remote reservoir shocks are designed and manufactured as complete units with different internal configurations and mounting hardware. If you decide you want to switch from one type to the other, you’ll need to purchase an entirely new shock assembly. This is why it’s important to carefully consider your riding needs before making your initial purchase.
Will a remote reservoir hose restrict oil flow and affect damping performance?
Quality remote reservoir systems use properly sized hoses with adequate internal diameter, so oil flow isn’t restricted during normal shock operation. Manufacturers design the hose length and diameter to ensure the remote reservoir functions identically to a piggyback in terms of damping performance. The key is avoiding extremely tight bends during installation and using reputable brands that engineer their hose systems correctly.
How often should I check the nitrogen pressure in my reservoir shock?
Check your nitrogen pressure every 20-30 hours of riding or at the start of each riding season, whichever comes first. If you notice changes in how your suspension feels—particularly if it seems softer or less controlled than usual—check the pressure immediately as this often indicates gas loss. Most riders also check pressure before long adventure trips to ensure optimal performance throughout the journey.
What's the typical cost difference between piggyback and remote reservoir shocks?
Remote reservoir shocks typically cost £100-200 more than equivalent piggyback models due to the additional hose, fittings, and separate reservoir mounting hardware. However, pricing varies significantly based on brand, adjustability features, and whether custom tuning is included. The performance benefits of either system far outweigh the cost difference if you’re regularly riding in conditions that demand better suspension than stock.
Can I install a remote reservoir shock myself, or do I need professional help?
If you’re comfortable with basic motorcycle maintenance and have the right tools, you can install a remote reservoir shock yourself. The shock installation is straightforward, but you’ll need to carefully plan reservoir placement, route the hose properly, and secure everything with appropriate mounting hardware. First-timers often benefit from professional installation to ensure optimal positioning and avoid routing mistakes that could damage the hose during riding.
Do reservoir shocks require more frequent servicing than standard shocks?
Reservoir shocks don’t inherently require more frequent servicing, but they do benefit from regular maintenance to perform at their best. Most manufacturers recommend full service intervals of 80-100 hours of riding or annually. The additional oil capacity in reservoir shocks actually helps extend the time between services compared to standard shocks, as the larger volume manages heat and contamination better, reducing oil breakdown.
What are the signs that my reservoir shock needs servicing or has developed a problem?
Watch for oil leaking from seals, fittings, or the hose connections on remote setups. Performance-wise, inconsistent damping, excessive bouncing, harsh bottoming, or a noticeably softer feel than normal all indicate service is needed. You might also hear unusual sounds like squishing or knocking. If your bike sits lower than usual when parked, this suggests nitrogen pressure loss or internal seal wear requiring immediate attention.
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